Wireless charger for cell phone. Pinout of USB connectors for charging phones Scheme of Chinese charging for three outputs
In short, I was fucked up by my native charger for the Nokia phone with autumn, bitch, with a milipizdric connector:
It always goes away, falls out. Damn shorter.
Fortunately, the phone has a micro-USB connector that has already become a standard. Well, at least mine has. Yes, and do not kick for Nokia, I have a phone for communication. For entertainment tablet. (like fucked up). So, through this connector, the phone is perfectly charged if there is charging.
And then the other day they brought another, obsolete, its short age, the "original" Chinese Nokia charger. Employees take them down to me from time to time. I don’t know the fuck, I don’t fix them to anyone, well, except for this case, and then because for myself See because of the soldering iron on the table and a special reputation in our office. Well, not the point. She was with exactly the right microUSB connector:
I’ll say right away that the simplest thing would be to solder the cord to my native charger, but I didn’t look for simple ways. For the experience gained, though small, is very useful. By the way, you can still buy a new charger, but these are costs, travel time. I forget, I'm lazy.
I share my impressions, experience, well, a little humor does not hurt.
I gave myself a coffee so that I would not fall asleep while scrolling through Google for typical charging situations, experienced tips, repair cases. It gave little sense, because there are thousands of them, if not billions, like the Chinese. Although it gave a general idea of charging circuitry and an understanding of cocky, or completely fucked up.
I covered the table with a rough draft, took out several suitable corpses, plugged the soldering iron into the socket, untwisted it for troubleshooting:
Charging with the right cord went around the world firmly. Nearly all semiconductor content burned out:
The second of the bins, xs from which, without a lace, looked perky, but did not work:
Just in case, I still had a working power supply, xs from what, but with quite competent circuitry, only change the swollen conder:
But I took pity on him and put him aside. In case of impossibility to fix that thread from the first two, I would take it.
Along the path of low resistance, the troubleshooting of the second charge showed a burned-out diode and a resistor, which the cunning Chinese, due to cheapening, use as fuses. I drink:
View from the other side. By the way, the circuitry is of a normal level, an order of magnitude better than the first charge:
It was decided to use the first one as a donor, the diode is normal, and the resistor has already burned out:
I found an analogue in the bins, which paid a little later:
ATTENTION! AHTUNG! WARNING!
I soldered the diode and the resistor, poked it into the socket, and the lit LED merrily turned green:
There is a contact.
"The resistor is weak," said the charge, and the sad gray smoke confirmed her words.
Okay, I said, and got into the bins in search of an analogue. Along the way, finding a varistor and a choke, which narrow-eyed people saved on. Resoldering:
New test, everything is ok (the photo did not turn out very well).
I present another device from the series "Don't Take!"
A simple microUSB cable is included in the kit, which I will test separately with a bunch of other laces.
I ordered this charger out of curiosity, knowing that it is extremely difficult to make a reliable and safe 5V 1A power supply device in such a compact case. Reality is harsh...
Came in a standard bubble wrap.
The case is glossy, wrapped with a protective film.
Dimensions with fork 65x34x14mm 
Charging immediately turned out to be non-working - a good start ...
I had to disassemble and repair the device at the beginning in order to be able to test it.
It is very easy to disassemble - on the latches of the fork itself.
The defect was discovered immediately - one of the wires to the plug fell off, the soldering turned out to be of poor quality. 
The second soldering is no better 
The assembly of the board itself is done normally (for the Chinese), the soldering is good, the board is washed. 
Real device diagram 
What problems were found:
- Pretty weak attachment of the fork to the body. It is not excluded the possibility of her being torn off in the outlet.
- No input fuse. Apparently those very wires to the plug are protection.
- Half-wave input rectifier - unjustified savings on diodes.
- Small input capacitor (2.2uF/400V). For the operation of a half-wave rectifier, the capacitance is clearly insufficient, which will lead to increased voltage ripples on it at a frequency of 50 Hz and to a decrease in its service life.
- Lack of input and output filters. Not a big loss for such a small and low power device.
- The simplest converter circuit on one weak transistor MJE13001.
- A simple ceramic capacitor 1nF / 1kV in the noise suppression circuit (shown separately in the photo). This is a gross violation of the security of the device. The capacitor must be of class at least Y2.
- There is no snubber circuit to dampen surges of the reverse run of the primary winding of the transformer. This impulse often breaks through the power key element when it is heated.
- Lack of protection against overheating, overload, short circuit, output voltage increase.
- The overall power of the transformer obviously does not pull 5W, and its very miniature size casts doubt on the presence of normal insulation between the windings.
Now testing.
Because the device is initially not safe, the connection was made through an additional mains fuse. If something happens, at least it won’t burn and leave without light.
I checked without a case so that you can control the temperature of the elements.
Output voltage without load 5.25V
Power consumption without load less than 0.1W
Under a load of 0.3A or less, charging works quite adequately, the voltage keeps normally 5.25V, the output ripple is insignificant, the key transistor heats up within normal limits.
Under a load of 0.4A, the voltage starts to walk a little in the range of 5.18V - 5.29V, the ripple at the output is 50Hz 75mV, the key transistor heats up within normal limits.
Under a load of 0.45A, the voltage begins to noticeably walk in the range of 5.08V - 5.29V, the ripple at the output is 50Hz 85mV, the key transistor starts to slowly overheat (burns the finger), the transformer is warm.
Under a load of 0.50A, the voltage starts to fluctuate strongly in the range of 4.65V - 5.25V, the ripple at the output is 50Hz 200mV, the key transistor is overheated, the transformer is also quite hot.
Under a load of 0.55A, the voltage jumps wildly in the range of 4.20V - 5.20V, the output ripple is 50Hz 420mV, the key transistor is overheated, the transformer is also quite hot.
With an even greater increase in load, the voltage sags sharply to obscene values.
It turns out that this charge can actually produce a maximum of 0.45A instead of the declared 1A.
Further, the charge was assembled into a case (along with a fuse) and left to work for a couple of hours.
Oddly enough, the charger did not fail. But this does not mean at all that it is reliable - having such circuitry, it will not last long ...
In short-circuit mode, charging died quietly 20 seconds after switching on - the key transistor Q1, resistor R2 and optocoupler U1 broke. Even the additionally installed fuse did not have time to burn out.
For comparison, I’ll show you how the simplest Chinese 5V 2A charger from a tablet looks inside, made in compliance with the minimum acceptable safety standards. 
I take this opportunity to inform you that the lamp driver from the previous review has been successfully finalized, the article has been supplemented.
Most modern mobile phones, smartphones, tablets and other wearable gadgets support charging via a USB mini-USB or micro-USB socket. True, it is still far from a single standard, and each company is trying to make the pinout in its own way. Probably to buy a charger from her. Well, at least the USB plug and socket itself were made standard, as well as the supply voltage of 5 volts. So with any charger-adapter, you can theoretically charge any smartphone. How? and read on.
Pinout USB connectors for Nokia, Philips, LG, Samsung, HTC
Nokia, Philips, LG, Samsung, HTC and many other brands of phones will only recognize the charger if the Data+ and Data- pins (2nd and 3rd) are shorted. You can short-circuit them in the USB_AF socket of the charger and safely charge your phone through a standard data cable.
Pinout of USB connectors on the plug
If the charger already has an output cord (instead of an output jack) and you need to solder a mini-USB or micro-USB plug to it, then you do not need to connect pins 2 and 3 in the mini/micro USB itself. At the same time, you solder plus on 1 contact, and minus - on the 5th (last).
Iphone USB pinout
For iPhones, the Data + (2) and Data- (3) pins must be connected to the GND pin (4) through 50 kOhm resistors, and to the + 5V pin through 75 kOhm resistors.
Samsung Galaxy Charging Connector Pinout
To charge the Samsung Galaxy, a 200 kΩ resistor between pins 4 and 5 and a jumper between pins 2 and 3 must be installed in the USB micro-BM plug.
Pinout of USB connectors for Garmin navigator
A special data cable is required to power or charge your Garmin navigator. Just to power the navigator through the cable, you need to short-circuit pins 4 and 5 in the mini-USB plug. For recharging, you need to connect pins 4 and 5 through an 18 kOhm resistor.
Pinout schemes for charging tablets
Almost any tablet computer requires a large current to charge - 2 times more than a smartphone, and charging through the mini / micro-USB socket in many tablets is simply not provided by the manufacturer. After all, even USB 3.0 will not give more than 0.9 amperes. Therefore, a separate nest is placed (often of a round type). But it can also be adapted to a powerful USB power source if you solder such an adapter.
Samsung Galaxy Tab Charging Socket Pinout
To properly charge the Samsung Galaxy Tab tablet, a different scheme is recommended: two resistors: 33 kOhm between +5 and the D-D + jumper; 10 kΩ between GND and jumper D-D+.
Charging port pinout
Here are some diagrams of the voltages on the USB pins, indicating the value of the resistors that allow these voltages to be obtained. Where a resistance of 200 ohms is indicated, a jumper must be installed, the resistance of which should not exceed this value.
Charger Port Classification
- SDP(Standard Downstream Ports) - data exchange and charging, allows current up to 0.5 A.
- CDP(Charging Downstream Ports) - data exchange and charging, allows current up to 1.5 A; hardware recognition of the port type (enumeration) is performed before the gadget connects the data lines (D- and D +) to its USB transceiver.
- DCP(Dedicated Charging Ports) - charging only, allows current up to 1.5 A.
- ACA(Accessory Charger Adapter) - PD-OTG operation in Host mode is declared (with connection to PD peripherals - USB-Hub, mouse, keyboard, HDD and with the possibility of additional power), for some devices - with the ability to charge PD during an OTG session .
How to remake the plug with your own hands
Now you have a pinout diagram for all popular smartphones and tablets, so if you have the skill of working with a soldering iron, there will be no problems with converting any standard USB connector to the type you need for your device. Any standard charging, which is based on the use of USB, involves the use of only two wires - this is + 5V and a common (negative) contact.
Just take any charging-adapter 220V / 5V, cut off the USB connector from it. The cut end is completely freed from the screen, while the remaining four wires are stripped and tinned. Now we take a cable with a USB connector of the desired type, after which we also cut off the excess from it and carry out the same procedure. Now it remains just to solder the wires together according to the diagram, after which the connection is isolated each separately. The resulting case is wrapped on top with electrical tape or tape. You can pour hot glue - also a normal option.
Bonus: all other connectors (jacks) for mobile phones and their pinouts are available in a single large table -.
Now all cell phone manufacturers have agreed and everything that is in stores is charged via a USB connector. This is very good, because chargers have become universal. In principle, a cell phone charger is not.
This is only a pulsed DC voltage source of 5V, and the actual charger, that is, the circuit that monitors the charge of the battery and ensures its charge, is located in the cell phone itself. But, the point is not this, but the fact that these “chargers” are now sold everywhere and are already so cheap that the issue of repair disappears somehow by itself.
For example, in a store, “charging” costs from 200 rubles, and on the well-known Aliexpress there are offers from 60 rubles (including delivery).
circuit diagram
A diagram of a typical Chinese charge, copied from the board, is shown in fig. 1. There may also be a variant with the rearrangement of the diodes VD1, VD3 and the zener diode VD4 to a negative circuit - Fig. 2.
And more "advanced" options may have rectifier bridges at the input and output. There may be differences in part numbers. By the way, the numbering on the diagrams is given arbitrarily. But this does not change the essence of the matter.
Rice. 1. A typical diagram of a Chinese network charger for a cell phone.
Despite the simplicity, this is still a good switching power supply, and even a stabilized one, which is quite suitable for powering something other than a cell phone charger.
Rice. 2. Scheme of a network charger for a cell phone with a changed position of the diode and zener diode.
The circuit is based on a high-voltage blocking oscillator, the generation pulse width of which is controlled by an optocoupler, the LED of which receives voltage from a secondary rectifier. The optocoupler lowers the bias voltage based on the key transistor VT1, which is set by resistors R1 and R2.
The load of the transistor VT1 is the primary winding of the transformer T1. Secondary, lowering, is winding 2, from which the output voltage is removed. There is also winding 3, it also serves to create positive feedback for generation, and as a source of negative voltage, which is made on the diode VD2 and capacitor C3.
This negative voltage source is needed to reduce the voltage at the base of the transistor VT1 when the optocoupler U1 opens. The stabilization element that determines the output voltage is the Zener diode VD4.
Its stabilization voltage is such that, in combination with the direct voltage of the IR LED of the optocoupler U1, it gives exactly the necessary 5V that is required. As soon as the voltage on C4 exceeds 5V, the VD4 zener diode opens and current flows through it to the optocoupler LED.
And so, the operation of the device does not raise questions. But what if I need not 5V, but, for example, 9V or even 12V? This question arose along with the desire to organize a network power supply for a multimeter. As you know, popular in amateur radio circles, multimeters are powered by Krona, a compact 9V battery.
And in "field" conditions, this is quite convenient, but in home or laboratory I would like to be powered from the mains. According to the scheme, “charging” from a cell phone is in principle suitable, it has a transformer, and the secondary circuit does not come into contact with the mains. The problem is only in the supply voltage - "charging" gives out 5V, and the multimeter needs 9V.
In fact, the problem with increasing the output voltage is solved very simply. It is only necessary to replace the VD4 zener diode. To get a voltage suitable for powering a multimeter, you need to put a zener diode on a standard voltage of 7.5V or 8.2V. In this case, the output voltage will be, in the first case, about 8.6V, and in the second about 9.3V, which, both, is quite suitable for a multimeter. A zener diode, for example, 1N4737 (this is 7.5V) or 1N4738 (this is 8.2V).
However, another low-power zener diode for this voltage is also possible.
Tests have shown that the multimeter performs well when powered by this power supply. In addition, an old pocket radio powered by Krona was also tried, it worked, only interference from the power supply slightly interfered. The voltage in 9V is not limited at all.
Rice. 3. Voltage adjustment unit for reworking a Chinese charger.
Do you want 12V? - No problem! We put the zener diode on 11V, for example, 1N4741. Only you need to replace the capacitor C4 with a higher voltage one, at least 16V. You can get even more stress. If you remove the zener diode at all, there will be a constant voltage of about 20V, but it will not be stabilized.
It is even possible to make a regulated power supply by replacing the zener diode with a regulated zener diode such as the TL431 (Figure 3). The output voltage can be adjusted, in this case, by a variable resistor R4.
Karavkin V. RK-2017-05.
Most modern network chargers are assembled according to the simplest pulse circuit, on one high-voltage transistor (Fig. 1.18) according to the blocking generator circuit.
Unlike simpler circuits based on a 50-Hz step-down transformer, the transformer for pulse converters of the same power is much smaller in size, which means that the dimensions, weight and price of the entire converter are smaller. In addition, pulse converters are safer - if in a conventional converter, in the event of a failure of power elements, a high unstabilized (and sometimes even alternating) voltage from the secondary winding of the transformer gets into the load, then in case of any malfunction of the impulse switch (except for the failure of the feedback optocoupler - but it is usually very well protected) there will be no voltage at all at the output.
Rice. 1.18. A simple pulsed blocking oscillator circuit
A description of the principle of operation and calculation of the circuit elements of a high-voltage pulse converter (transformer, capacitors, etc.) can be found at http://www.nxp.com/ acrobat/applicationnotes/AN00055.pdf (1 Mb).
The principle of operation of the device
The alternating mains voltage is rectified by the VD1 diode (although sometimes the generous Chinese put as many as 4 diodes in a bridge circuit), the current pulse when turned on is limited by the resistor R1. Here it is desirable to put a resistor with a power of 0.25 W - then, when overloaded, it will burn out, performing the function of a fuse.
The converter is assembled on a transistor VT1 according to the classic flyback circuit. Resistor R2 is needed to start generation when power is applied, it is optional in this circuit, but the converter works a little more stable with it. Generation is supported by the capacitor C1, included in the PIC circuit on the AND winding, the generation frequency depends on its capacitance and the parameters of the transformer. When the transistor is unlocked, the voltage at the lower terminals of the windings I and II according to the circuit is negative, at the upper ones it is positive, the positive half-wave through the capacitor C1 opens the transistor even more, the voltage amplitude in the windings increases.
The transistor opens like an avalanche. After some time, as the capacitor C1 charges, the base current begins to decrease, the transistor begins to close, the voltage at the top output of the winding II according to the circuit begins to decrease, through the capacitor C1 the base current decreases even more, and the transistor closes like an avalanche. Resistor R3 is needed to limit the base current during circuit overloads and surges in the AC mains.
At the same time, the self-induction EMF amplitude through the VD4 diode recharges the capacitor C3 - therefore, the converter is called flyback. If you swap the terminals of the winding III and recharge the capacitor C3 during the forward stroke, then the load on the transistor VT1 will increase sharply during the forward stroke (it may even burn out due to too much current), and during the reverse stroke, the self-induction EMF will be unspent and stand out at the collector junction of the transistor - that is, it can burn out from overvoltage.
Therefore, in the manufacture of the device, it is necessary to strictly observe the phasing of all windings (if you confuse the terminals of winding II, the generator simply will not start, since the capacitor C1, on the contrary, will disrupt generation and stabilize the circuit).
The output voltage of the device depends on the number of turns in the windings II and III and on the stabilization voltage of the Zener diode VD3. The output voltage is equal to the stabilization voltage only if the number of turns in the windings II and III is the same, otherwise it will be different. During the reverse stroke, the capacitor C2 is recharged through the diode VD2, as soon as it is charged to about -5 V, the zener diode will begin to pass current, the negative voltage at the base of the transistor VT1 will slightly reduce the amplitude of the pulses on the collector, and the output voltage will stabilize at a certain level. The stabilization accuracy of this circuit is not very high - the output voltage varies within 15 ... 25%, depending on the load current and the quality of the VD3 zener diode.
Alternate device option
A diagram of a better (and more complex) converter is shown in fig. 1.19.
To rectify the input voltage, a diode bridge VD1 and a capacitor C1 are used, the resistor R1 must be at least 0.5 W, otherwise, at the moment of switching on, when charging the capacitor C1, it may burn out. The capacitance of capacitor C1, in microfarads, must equal the power of the device, in watts.
The converter itself is assembled according to the already familiar scheme on the transistor VT1. The emitter circuit includes a current sensor on resistor R4 -
Rice. 1.19. Electrical diagram of a more complex converter
as soon as the current flowing through the transistor becomes so large that the voltage drop across the resistor exceeds 1.5 V (with the resistance indicated on the circuit - 75 mA), the transistor VT2 opens slightly through the VD3 diode and limits the base current of the transistor VT1 so that its collector current does not exceeded the above 75 mA. Despite its simplicity, such a protection scheme is quite effective, and the converter turns out to be almost eternal even with short circuits in the load.
To protect the transistor VT1 from self-induction EMF emissions. A smoothing chain VD4-C5-R6 has been added to the scheme. Diode VD4 must be high-frequency - ideally BYV26C, a little worse - UF4004 ... UF4007 or 1N4936, 1N4937. If there are no such diodes, it is better not to install a chain at all!
Capacitor C5 can be anything, but it must withstand a voltage of 250 ... 350 V. Such a chain can be installed in all similar circuits (if it is not there), including the circuit according to fig. 1.18 - it will significantly reduce the heating of the case of the key transistor and significantly "extend the life" of the entire converter.
Stabilization of the output voltage is carried out using the Zener diode DA1, which is at the output of the device, galvanic isolation is provided by the optocoupler VOl. The TL431 chip can be replaced with any low-power zener diode, the output voltage is equal to its stabilization voltage plus 1.5 V (voltage drop across the optocoupler LED VOl); to protect the LED from overloads, a small resistor R8 is added. As soon as the output voltage becomes slightly higher than the set value, a current will flow through the zener diode, the LED of the optocoupler VOl will start to glow, its phototransistor will open slightly, the positive voltage from the capacitor C4 will slightly open the transistor VT2, which will reduce the amplitude of the collector current of the transistor VT1. The instability of the output voltage of this circuit is less than that of the previous one, and does not exceed 10 ... 20%, also due to the capacitor C1, there is practically no background of 50 Hz at the converter output.
It is better to use an industrial transformer in these circuits, from any similar device. But you can wind it yourself - for an output power of 5 W (1 A, 5 V), the primary winding should contain approximately 300 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.15 mm, winding II - 30 turns of the same wire, winding III - 20 turns of wire with a diameter of 0 .65 mm. Winding III must be very well isolated from the first two, it is advisable to wind it in a separate section (if any). The core is standard for such transformers, with a dielectric gap of 0.1 mm. In extreme cases, you can use a ring with an outer diameter of approximately 20 mm.
